"Arbeit Macht Frei."

"Work sets you free."

We arrived in Krakow last night and we got snow.
It's quite fitting, as today we went to Auschwitz and I think any movie I have ever seen about life in "the camp" has always been covered in snow.
I must admit I wasn't quite prepared for the effect today's visit was going to have on me. It actually made me feel physically sick. Of course reading history books and watching films on TV can have some emotional effect on you, but nothing like being exposed to the real thing. Obviously I didn't live through the 'real experience', but just being there and seeing the sheer scale on which such atrocities were carried out is very overwhelming. Couple this with endless haunting photographic displays, walls covered in 'mugshots' and floral tributes scattered about to visitor's dead family members and you have a recipe for being smacked in the face with a reality that is much easier to deal with when it's in a two dimensional form while quickly being flicked past in the pages of a high school history book.
What will forever be etched in my memory however are the displays which held belongings of the people who were taken taken to Auschwitz. It is impossible to describe, but walking in to a 20 meter long hall with 5 meter deep floor to ceiling glass cases either side of you filled with the shoes of those who lived and died there can really take your breath away. In another room, tooth brushes and hair brushes and razors. In another room - children's shoes and clothes. In another room suitcases and so it goes on. All belongings of people who were to face life in one of the worst death camps ever in existence.

Warsaw to Krakow

I am surviving the cold - amazingly!
After a couple of days looking around Warsaw, we have decide to move on to Krakow a little earlier than expected. There are two reasons for this. Firstly we want to visit Auschwitz before we go to Prague and secondly Warsaw is nice, but I guess it would be a whole lot better if you knew a 'local'.
Although I had thought Poland would appear more repressed and poor than it does, I must admit Warsaw is rather bleak looking. The city is very gray (the buildings that is) and coupled with the weather we are currently experiencing, I can see why the people in this city don't seem to smile a whole lot. That said I have found the people here to be very friendly and helpful. The hospitality in the hostel has been great. It really does feel like a home away from home. There are few hostels where the staff actually take the time to talk with you and when you do arrive back late after dinner; offer to make you a warm drink while you relax on the sofa. It didn't stop there however; despite that gruff Eastern European conversational approach the people we have met so far are generally warm and helpful despite the language barriers.
Over the last couple of days we have had a walk through the Old Town and the Old Warsaw Ghetto (pictured). This area obviously has turbulent past, which is now hidden by the large cobble stoned square which is surrounded by (surprisingly) colourful bars, cafes and restaurants. It's the part of town you would probably expect to be potentially the most depressive looking, however it's colourful exterior hides the torment of it's past.
The hostel we're staying in currently has another hostel in Krakow. They've organised a room for us and all that is left is to buy our tickets and take the train. Warsaw has been an interesting place to visit, although it hasn't left me wanting to race back here for another visit.

Perogie Galore!

We finally arrived in Warsaw last night. To put it quite simply it is freezing!
The Swiss Air flight was good, but we didn't have much time for our transfer in Zurich so we were rushed through another security check-in. Unfortunately Zoe and I set off the alarm - I'm still not sure how, but unlike other airports where you get a bit of a pat down we were ushered off in to a little metal frame with a curtain around it. I must admit at this time I was fearing what the next few minutes may have in store for me. I really wasn't looking forward to some "rubber glove" treatment, which fortunately did not eventuate. Although I must admit the security guy did a very THOROUGH investigation. Just what do they think you can keep in there?
After settling in to our hostel (Jump Inn Hostel) which I have to say is one of the best ones I have stayed in, we decided to take a look about. Obviously it was late so we weren't going to be able to see much, but after the near miss at the airport, I could sure do with a beer. We made our way to the Old Town. It looked nice all lit up, but it was too cold so we made our way to find a bar - surprise, surprise we came across an Irish Pub (funny how there is one of them in every tourist district). We went in thinking that it would help us acclimatise to our new environment, but all it did was see us spending 100zl for 5 drinks, a bottle of water and a packet of crisps - that was more than I'd be charged in Western Europe. Disgusted with the prices we decided to leave and went in search of some traditional late night cuisine and of course we found it hiding under some golden arches. I know - poor effort, but it was late!
I awoke this morning, jumped up, looked out the window and was hoping to see snow, but alas it was not to be. This time last year they were knee deep in snow. After breakfast we left in search of the Royal Palace. We did find it after an hour or so of walking. We spent some time in the gardens, looked about inside and then decided it was time to eat. There is one thing for sure - this weather gives you an almighty appetite. We tried out some real local cuisine this time - best choice goes to me for my order of "Bigos" or Traditional Hunters Stew (it tastes a lot better than it looks!). Anyway with a full belly we headed off back in to the cold and returned to the Old Town to look around the Warsaw Ghetto. It was pretty amazing to read about what had gone on here and then try and imagine how it could be possible when today it is a place a lot of tourists visit and has quite a vibe about it - a lot of shops, cafes and restaurants. Although the remaining wall around the area does give some idea of what may have gone on. It got cold and dark pretty quick, so we all decided it was beer time. Despite only being day 2 a little cabin fever had begun to set in, so it was thought best to clear the air and get on with an enjoyable holiday for all. Of course walking all the way back to the hostel in the cold made for a healthy appetite and we went to Chopskie Jadlo for dinner. It is a Traditional Polish Peasant Food Chain with tasty, large portions of food at a very reasonable price. Again I made a great choice, the spicy goulash on potato pancakes - I'm starting to think I could get used to this food!
After more food than required and a few large beers we decided it was time to head back to the hostel before chilling out and going to bed. Speaking of which, it is rather late so I must away. If I don't freeze during the night, I'll let you know how tomorrow goes.

In just over 12 hours...

The time has finally arrived. In just over 12hrs we'll be on our way to Poland. So the itinerary is currently Holland to Poland (Warsaw & Krakow), then to Czech Republic (Prague) for New Years followed by Slovakia (Bratislava) and then finishing up in Hungary (Budapest) before returning back to The Netherlands on 7th January. I'll try and keep my blog up to date as much as possible with all the travel stories - just in case you're interested...

This is why I love these guys so much...

Christmas is definitely a time when I miss the people from back home, or those who have made a big impact on me during my travels.
Just take a look at this photo I got sent by some of my colleagues from Scotland - how can I not love and miss them?!
Thanks guys! Wishing you a huge Merry Christmas and all the best for 2007! See ya soon(ish).

The people I love most...

There's so many people I have come across in my life who mean the world to me. People who I would do anything for, because I know they would do the same for me. People who I do not speak with, email or text every day, but people who know. People who are certain. People who are secure in the relationship I have with them and me secure in what I know belongs to us.
It's difficult though. Being so far away from some of these people. Especially when you know they are hurting. When you know that a simple hug can feel so safe and protecting. When laughter over a beer can wash the worries of the world away. When a shoulder to absorb their tears offers support for a heavy head. But it's not always possible to be by their side. It's not always possible to offer that security in a physical form. Am I failing these people who I love? Am I letting them down by not being there? Am I doing the best for them that I can? Do they know I love them? Do they know I need them? Do they know they are the laughter inside me? Do they know they are the colours that I see? Do they know they are the difference that excites me? Do they know they are my motivation to explore? Do they know they are my world? I just want to do what is right for those I love. You know that - don't you?

(There are so many more who have not made it to this picture, but who equally deserve a place in it.)

I love a sunburnt country...

A country scorched, burnt and dry.
It's hard to imagine that some 10,000 miles away that there is a developed country which has been gripped by drought for the past 7 years.
The past 6 years of my life have been spent living in the North West of Europe and the UK. Here rain is a common occurrence. Regularly daily activities are put on hold or plans changed while people wait out one downpour to the next. People arrive at work drenched, gardens are soaking wet and green. Rivers burst their banks, people's possessions are washed away and landslides flow down the mountains and hills because the ground is too wet.
In Australia however the story is very different. Currently 550,000 hectares have been burnt black in some of the worst bushfires the country has ever seen. Thousands of people are volunteering and risking their lives to save their lives and property of others. This summer is shaping up to be unforgivably hot and next year severe water restrictions will be imposed as many of the water reservoirs sit at less than 20% capacity. All of this in Victoria in Australia's South West - not even one of the driest parts of the company.

Getting in to the Christmas spirit...

Ever wanted to be an elf at Christmas?

I did!

CLICK HERE
to see.

Blogs live on forever...

I was just looking through the Couch Surfing website and the Hospitality Club website in preparation for my trip away at Christmas and New Years when I cam across a story about a young lady from Poland who travelled the world for 7 years. She had yearned always to go to Africa and unfortunately while she was there caught Cerebral Malaria and died.
However, she had kept an amazing blog of all her experiences of travelling with some very impressive photos. All from her perspective. As I read through it, I realised that maybe she is gone physically, but because of her blog and her 'free spirit' a part of her lives on for the rest of the world to share in. I wish technology like this had been around when my Nan was still alive - I'd love to be able to look back over her stories.

If you would like to read Kinga's blog or see some of the photos she took on her journey - CLICK HERE!

View from above...

The fires currently burning out of control in the North East of Victoria are producing so much smoke that it can be clearly seen by satellite. It's not surprising as the smoke has spread as far a field as Tasmania. Even parts of Melbourne are being covered by smoke and there have been delays at Tullamarine airport even though the fires are burning almost 300km away. Volunteers are still working around the clock to save houses and bushland.

(Photo from BBC Website - "Smoke blankets Australian state.")

Victoria Ablaze!

I know I often complain about Australia being backward and I guess in some respects it really is. One thing I am proud of however is the amount of volunteer support that goes in to the emergency services each year and the way Australians always pull together whenever there a crisis to help each other out. Right now is one of those times. Currently there are 100 000 hectares of drought stricken North Eastern Victoria on fire. 40 firefighters have been recruited from New Zealand to assist the 2000 firefighters already fighting that battle and authorities are worried with an expected 40 degree temperature and a northerly wind this weekend, that things are only going to get worse. It's beginning to look like that these could be the worst bushfires the country has faced since 1939. Added to this is the fact that Australia has now officially been in the grip of a draught for the last 7 years and it's very conceivable that they may just not have enough water to be able to fight the fires which have already burnt many homes to the ground and have many more at risk. One of those houses belongs to my aunt. Already emergency services have advised her to pack as many belongings as she can and prepare to leave at any time. It must be hard for her as this is the house where she lived with my uncle, the house where my uncle died and where so many family gatherings have been held. I am insanely proud thought that three members of my family make up some of the many thousands of volunteers who each year give up their time to protect and preserve the lives of fellow Australians. My youngest brother aged 21yo has just returned from doing his part in helping to do just that. He spent many long days, up to 14 hours at a time trying to save homes and lives. Now it is my mother (aged 50yo) who leaves tomorrow to go and help fight these fires. She will be working with the New Zealand recruits and is rostered to work nights on 14 hour shifts. All of this completely as a volunteer and the for the satisfaction that she played a part in protecting people, homes and wildlife. I'm a little nervous about her going and in fact I sent her a text message tonight asking her to be careful and questioning why she didn't take up a more risk free hobby like glass painting. The fact remains that her and all the other strike teams out there fighting this fire are highly trained. They give up hours of their time each weekend to attend training, to run fire drills, to learn first aid and how to control hazardous materials in the event of a spill. These are the people who are the guardians of rural Australia. The ones who attend house fires, train de-railings, road accidents and of course bushfires. These are the people who do themselves and Australia proud.

(Photo from theage.com.au - "Towns on alert as fires rage in state's east.")

Stupid people do exist!

Here is a story to illustrate my claim.

Click Here!

Sinterklaasavond Ends in Tragedy!

***WARNING***

Chocolate letters can do more than just put a few extra inches on your waist.
Body heat can melt these delicious treats, resulting in immediate and untold levels of embarrassment and humiliation. Especially when in their melted form, they attach to the back of your jeans making you look like you have shit yourself.
All chocolate letters should be recalled from supermarket shelves immediately to avoid this happening to other unsuspecting consumers in the future.

Join the campaign at www.i_didnt_shit_myself.com

All good things must come to an end...

Well we're back in Holland and the first thing I've noticed is the drop in the temperature. I must admit it has been great being outside all weekend and enjoying some mighty fine weather - thanks for the show Barcelona.
Well After returning to Barcelona from Sitges last night, we ended up chilling out in our room for a bit. We were still really full for an amazing afternoon of good friends, good food and good wine. Once we recovered some energy we hit the shower to prepare for a night out. After trying out a couple of different bars, we decided to head to Arena. We had been there before and had a good time, so we thought it would be worth paying another visit. Well it was a long night of drinking and dancing which finished I think about 6am this morning.
Obviously I woke up this morning with a rather obvious little hangover and that overwhelming feeling of not enough sleep. I really just wanted to spend the day curled up in bed, but alas it was only 1hr 15mins til heck out time so I had to get moving. After a fairly long shower I managed to summon the energy to get dressed and pack my bag. My main motivation at this point was some greasy food and what better than a bocadillo con bacon y queso.
Anyway the weather was great so I decided to walk off the hangover. After more than an hour of wondering about, hangover still in force I decided the only option left was for a 'hair of the dog' and like any old faithful - mission accomplished.
Being such nice weather I took the opportunity to sit in the beer garden at Cafe Bar Acuma. After a short wait we were also joined by some old friends Naysa and Andreas. Naysa we met 3 years ago when we were first in Barcelona and doing our washing in a laundromat. Naysa is from Venezuela, but is setting up a life for herself in Spain. When we first met Naysa, she couldn't really speak any English, but she's got a lot better over the last few years. Needless to say though, the conversations till involves quite a bit of gesture. Sometime sit feels more like a game of Charades. Anyway it was great to see them again. It's been over a year.
Well as the title says - "All good things must come to an end..." At 4.28pm this afternoon, we took the train to the airport, checked in and started in motion the procedures to return back home to Rotterdam, but not before doing some "tax free" shopping. We we're hoping to go back in February for Carnival in Sitges. No doubt we'll be back soon enough. I love the place to much not to get back there as soon as I can!

Bocadillo tortilla por favor!

We finally made it to the airport after a rather late finish it work. We took the 21.25 flight from Schipol to Barcelona on Vuelling. We arrived there just before mid night as the flight was running a little late. Being Spain though everything was still happening and to my amazement the weather was a very reasonable 15 degrees. Only about 10 degrees warmer than what it was when we left Rotterdam. We made it to Pension (Hostel) Paris just off Las Ramblas and were able to secure a room for the next two nights. Because it is not so busy we were able to get a room on the first floor which is quite a change - normally we have to contend with quite a lot of stairs. None the less it was nice to be back. We decided to take a walk and ended up at the Travel Bar where we downed a few pints before going for another walk and finally getting to bed at about 4am this morning. One of the things I love about Spain is their passion for late night activities. After being harassed by a very attractive female prostitute for about 5 minutes, I hid in a shop, ate a samosa and then snuck out and walked very quickly back to the the hostel.
I awoke this morning to the sounds of people walking briskly past our balcony and got ready to enjoy a day out and about. Last night we had organised with our friends Paul and Josè to meet up with them in Sitges today, so we took the train and headed to the seaside. We have had an amazing day sitting by the marina eating some delicious Spanish food - paella, croquettas, black squid ink rissotto etc. and drinking some mighty fine red wine. We had a look at their new house which looks over the marina and then found another quiet spot to sit and enjoy some more red wine and a view of the sea. We´re back at their house just now enjoying a bit of time chilling out before we go back to Barcelona in a little while - I´m guessing we´ll probably end up having a night out on the town.

Hola y Ole!

Can you believe it? Greg just got tickets from work for free for us to go to Barcelona this weekend. I love it there and I can´t wait to get back... It´s been so long. Anyway I have to try and focus on work for the rest of the day before going home, getting packed and getting to the airport.

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